There's More To Proper Flooring Installation Than Meets The Eye.

Hardwood:

Natural hardwood is often referred to as “alive,” it needs to breath; in other words, it needs to be able to expand and contract. Temperature, altitude and humidity all have an effect on natural hardwood. Those components are a consideration that play a role in the installation process.

Types of Installation:

Engineered Hardwood: is often more stable and stronger than solid hardwood because of its layers. Its perpendicular layers mean less expansion and contraction, and this allows for a tighter fit, especially during the colder winter months when the air is dry.

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BEFORE STARTING

ACCLIMATION:

Floors should be acclimatized for 72 hours in the room in which it will be installed. Several moisture tests should be done prior to installation to ensure proper moisture content. Failure to allow flooring to properly acclimatize prior to installation may cause cracks, separation and cupping.

HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE:

Wood is a natural resource made of fibers that will naturally contract and expand with changes in humidity. This contraction and expansion is normal and will not harm your floor as long as relative humidity levels are maintained between 35% and 55% and temperature is maintained between 18-24°C (65-75° F) for at least 3-5 days prior to flooring installation and those temperature & humidity levels are maintained after installation. This may require the use of a humidifier or dehumidifier and/or ventilation. Failure to maintain proper humidity levels can cause “cupping” and aggravate other problems. Always maintain a ¾ inch expansion gap around all vertical obstructions including walls to allow for contraction and expansion. Be sure to store flooring in a well ventilated, climate-controlled environment.

PREPARING THE AREA:

• Moldings: If needed, use a jamb saw to undercut door casings and jambs so that flooring can slide underneath.
• Scribe along the top edge of existing base moldings with a utility knife prior to removing moldings to prevent tearing paint or drywall.
• Remove all existing moldings and doorway thresholds before installing floor.
• Environment: Maintain temperature between 18-24°C (65-75° F) and relative humidity at 35-55% for at least 3-5 days before installation and maintain after installation. HVAC system must be operational for at least a week prior.
• Radiant heat systems must be operating at least one week prior to installation. Turn off and let subfloor cool down to room temperature 3-4 hours before installation.
• Ensure basements and crawl spaces are ventilated.
• Insulate heating ducts with a double layer of thick asphalt felt paper.
• Engineered floors can be installed on, above and below grade where proper care has been taken to ensure flooring conditions meet installation and warranty requirements.
• Ensure flooring application is appropriate for engineered flooring. Do NOT install floors in moist or damp areas such as, bathrooms, saunas, patios, decks or outdoors.

SUBFLOORS MUST BE LEVEL within 3/16 inch over 10 feet (5mm in 3 meters) prior to installation. Subfloors that are not level can cause creaking noise and other problems, which will not be covered by warranty. Carefully inspect your subfloor and replace any nails that are not completely secure. Close adherence to installation instructions can minimize the risk of squeaks, however, there is no guarantee an engineered hardwood floor will not squeak. Squeaks are caused when the subfloor separates from the joist. This can happen with temperature and humidity changes or when new construction settles, which changes the levelness of the subfloor. When the wood moves up and down on the pulled nail, it can cause the floor to squeak, therefore, it is recommended that your subfloor is screwed down rather than nailed down to prevent squeaking. 

If moisture limits are exceeded, do not install flooring, prior to correcting the problem by increasing the temperature and ventilation until proper relative humidity conditions are met. Alternatively appropriate moisture retardant or use a vapour barrier underlay can be used. However, subfloor moisture should not exceed 12% and the difference between subfloor and the flooring should not exceed 3% moisture. Do not install flooring if moisture limits are exceeded; moisture limits must be brought into an acceptable range prior to install.

Carefully inspect the subfloor before installation. Watch for creaking, loose nails or screws, dints, chips, heaves and dips and repair as needed. The subfloor must be level. If you are installing a new plywood subfloor, lay the plywood perpendicular or on a diagonal to the flooring joists, with 1/8 inch spacing between sheets. Install # 15 felt floor liner under subfloor placed over concrete. Securely fasten down plywood with nails, staples or screws every 6 inches. If you are installing over old wood floors, 1/4-to-3/8-inch plywood can be used. If a wood sub-floor is used above soil, a 6 ml polyethylene moisture barrier with taped seams should be placed over the soil to prevent moisture from getting into the engineered flooring. OSB must be APA rated, at least 3/4 inch, and maintained in a controlled environment.

Concrete

Concrete subfloors must be cured for at least 45-90 days with 30-60 days drying time prior to installation. Moisture tests must be completed and documented on all concrete slabs using an accurate moisture test. If there is evidence of moisture after performing tests, postpone installation until moisture problem has been corrected or use an appropriate moisture barrier. Moisture readings over 3 lbs/1000 sq ft, must have an appropriate surface moisture barrier applied, or warranty will be voided. Please note: You may be required to provide proof of moisture testing documentation for warranty claims. All concrete slabs should have a minimum of 6-mil poly film moisture barrier between the ground and concrete regardless of results. Existing carpeting or under pad MUST be removed.

POLYFILM TEST:

PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST:

CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST:

AFTER INSTALLATION:

• Once installation is complete, cover your floors using heavy-duty protective flooring paper prior to proceeding with other interior work. Frequently, damage to a newly installed floor can be caused by other trades dropping tools, dragging ladders and scaffolding across an unprotected floor or by painters spilling paint on it.
• Putting any kind of tape on the actual flooring is not recommended. When taping paper or sheets together, tape them to each other rather than taping to finished floor.
• Do not allow the protective floor covering to sit on the installed floor for an extended length of time. Follow the manufacturer recommendations for the type of floor covering.

COLOUR CHANGES AND VARIATION:

Hardwood flooring ages and matures over time with exposure to UV light. Most floors will darken and become richer in colour. To prevent spot darkening of floors, area rugs and large pieces of furniture should be routinely rearranged. Many wood floors will display variation in colour from board to board. Some floors will have more variation than others depending on the species. This is not indicative of any fault in the floor, but is a natural occurrence with any wood product. It is advisable to choose and install boards from several different boxes to ensure a good mix of colour, grain and shading.

MOISTURE:

Water can damage a wood floor. Any spills of any liquid should be wiped up right away. Do not wet-mop wood floors. Damage resulting from standing water or liquid is not covered by warranty.

RADIANT HEAT:

• Most engineered floors are approved for use over hydronic (not electric) radiant heat.
• When installing wood flooring over radiant heat, floating installation is recommended. Glue down installation over radiant heat is acceptable with the exception of certain species.
• Plywood with vapour barrier is recommended for all applications (glue, float, nail/staple) over radiant heat.
• Ensure flooring is approved for use over radiant heat.
• Use adhesives specially formulated for use over radiant heat.
• NEVER penetrate heating elements when installing floors over radiant heat.
• Check subfloor for moisture content. Both flooring and subfloor must have proper moisture tests performed.
• For hydronic radiant heat, a pressure test must be performed and documented by a qualified plumber or radiant heat installer prior to flooring installation.
• An outside thermostat should be installed to prevent changes in moisture content due to temperature.
• You can expect seasonal changes such as shrinkage and expansion with changes in temperature and humidity. With radiant heating, it is very important to maintain humidity at 35-55% and never fall below 35%. Temperature must not exceed 28°C (82°F). A humidifier and/or dehumidifier may be needed to maintain humidity at desired levels. Some species may require 45-55% humidity levels. Please consult manufacturers recommendations.

Turning Radiant Heat OFF & ON: 

• Radiant heating system should be run at 2/3 of maximum output for at least 2 weeks before installation to allow any remaining moisture to dissipate.
• Three to five days prior to installation, reduce heating system to 65°F (18°C) so adhesive does not cure excessively or too fast.
• Two days after installation, gradually raise temperature to desired level over the next week.
• Surface temperature should never exceed 27°C (82°F).
• Maintain relative humidity at 35-55%.

1. Concrete with two layers of plywood interlocking covered with moisture barrier.
2. Subfloor directly nailed to floor joist with radiant heat system. The plywood is screwed into place on the floor joist which the radiant heating system is installed. Vapour barrier is between the floor and subfloor.
3. Subfloor over sleepers between radiant heat tubing.

Additional Installation Guidelines:

STEP ONE: STARTING THE LAYOUT:

1. Installation parallel to the longest and straightest wall is recommended for best visual effects. Install floors perpendicular to flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce any subfloor sagging.
2. In at least two places, at least 18 inches from the corners of the starting walls, measure out equal distances and snap a chalk line. The measurements must be the sum of the width of the flooring plus an additional 5/8 inch to allow for 3/8-inch expansion space and the width of the tongue.
3. Measure the distance between the starting line along the full length of the wall to see if there are any places out of line. It may be necessary to trim board widths in order to be aligned with any irregularities in the wall.
4. Install a starting strip with no adhesive, along the inside edge of the chalk line, closest to the starting wall. This row must perfectly align with the starting chalk line.
5. When the row is completely straight, use finish nails or concrete nails to attach strip to the subfloor. This sacrificial row will minimize movement of the floor during the installation process and will be removed later on.

STEP TWO: SPREADING THE ADHESIVE:

1. Follow all directions according to the adhesive manufacturer. Use a trowel to spread adhesive over an area that can be covered with flooring within 30-90 minutes. Work trowel at 45-degree angle in a circular motion.

STEP THREE: INSTALLING THE FLOOR:

1. Install the first board along the chalk line, making sure the tongue side is tight against the strip.
2. Insert the next board into the adjoining tongue or groove and force the board tightly against the sacrificial row and first plank. When installing products wider than 3¼ inch, apply a bead of carpenter’s wood glue to all the end grooves prior to installing into the adhesive. When installing pieces, engage the short end-joint first then slide together tightly to engage long joint tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive bleed-through and memory pull-back, avoid sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as possible when placing them in position.
3. Once you have installed three or more boards in the first row, you can begin installation of the second row.
4. Select a board for the second row that will allow at least 6 inches of difference between the joints of the first row and second row. Continue installation, starting new rows once three or more boards have been installed for the preceding rows until the laid down adhesive has been covered.
5. Stagger joints a minimum 6 inches in adjacent rows. Avoid alignment of joints in alternating rows which can create an undesirable H-shaped pattern.
6. Once the first section has been completed, inspect all joints closely, tightening all end and side gaps as needed.
7. Measure the final row and trim board lengths to fit along the final wall, maintaining 3/8 inch expansion gap. Use blue painter’s tape to hold the final row in place.
8. Once main area is complete, remove the sacrificial row, careful not to damage the adjoining boards. Complete installation in the same manner.
9. If required by adhesive manufacturer, roll floor with appropriate weight roller before adhesive cures.
10. If necessary, use weights to flatten boards with bows until adhesive cures in order to prevent hollow spots. Boards that cannot be flattened should be cut in length to reduce the bow or not used.

STEP FOUR: FINISHING:

1. Remove all tape from the floor surface. Do not let tape remain on flooring longer than 24 hours.
2. Inspect floor for any gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing tape. Remove all residue, touch up chips and fill with appropriate filler if necessary. Use coloured latex filler for factory finished floors.
3. Install or reinstall all mouldings, nailing to wall, not the floor. Add base shoe if necessary.
4. Vacuum or sweep floor thoroughly.
5. Use only cleaners formulated for pre-finished hardwood floors. Never wet mop or spray cleaner directly on floor.
6. Wait 24 hours before moving furniture and allowing heavy foot traffic.
7. If floor is to be covered for temporary protection, use a breathable material such as, cardboard. Never cover with plastic.

Floating Installation

STEP ONE: PREPARING THE FLOOR:

1. For concrete subfloors, follow all testing requirements for moisture prior to installation. Install a 6-mil poly vapour barrier with joints overlapping 8” (203mm). Fasten seams every 18-24 inches with clear waterproof packing tape. Run outside edges of poly up perimeter of each wall 4 inches. Trim excess after flooring installation is complete. Do not use vapour barrier over wood subfloors, use moisture retardant.
2. Install recommended underlayment parallel to the starting wall in the same direction flooring will be installed. Butt edges but do not overlap joints. Leave a 3/8 inch space between pad and all walls and permanent vertical fixtures. Tape all joints using a waterproof tape with no wrinkles.

STEP TWO: STARTING THE LAYOUT:

1. Installation parallel to the longest and straightest wall is recommended for best visual effects. Install floors perpendicular to flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce any subfloor sagging.
2. In at least two places, at least 18 inches from the corners of the starting walls, measure out equal distances and snap a chalk line. The measurements must be the sum of the width of the flooring plus an additional 5/8 inch to allow for 3/8 inch expansion space and the width of the tongue.
3. Measure the distance between the starting line along the full length of the wall to see if there are any places out of line. It may be necessary to trim board widths in order to line up against the wall and its irregularities.
4. OPTIONAL: Install a row with no adhesive along the inside edge of the chalk line, closest to the starting wall. Make sure row is in perfect alignment with the chalk line and use wedges to hold the flooring in place on the ends.

STEP THREE: INSTALLING THE FLOOR:

1. Select the longest boards available. Lay the boards out along the length of the room, making certain the final board in the row is at least 12 inches in length. If not, trim the first board to allow the last board to be longer.
2. Begin installation with the tongue facing away from the starting wall. Groove should be facing the starting wall or strip row. The short end groove should be facing the end wall. Align the first board with the starting line.
3. Select the next board. Place a 1/8 inch continuous bead of glue in the inside bottom edge of the short end groove. Do not apply glue to the long side groove yet. Carefully interlock the joint of the second board to the first board, keeping the long side aligned with the starting line.
4. Remove any excess glue from the floor surface with a towel dampened (not wet) with warm soapy water. Do not let glue dry on surface. Use 3M blue painter’s tape, not masking tape, to temporarily hold the flooring in place and joints together. Use wedges or spacers along the side and end walls and on the ends only if a sacrificial row was used to maintain alignment with the starting line. Continue until first row is complete.
5. Measure and cut to length the final board in the first row, allowing 3/8 inch expansion gap between the end of the board and end wall. Select a longer board so that the remaining piece of the board can be used to start the next or later rows. Apply glue in the groove and install.
6. If the cut off waste piece from the first row, last piece was 18 inches or longer, use it to start the second row. Stagger adjacent row joints at least 6 inches.
7. Place a continuous bead of glue along the inside bottom edge of the end groove and side groove. Carefully align the tongue and grooves together and tighten with a tapping block until all joints are snug. Remove any excess glue and temporarily hold joints together with blue tape. Cut and install the final board of the row.
8. Continue until the first few rows are complete. At this point, you want to be certain the floor installation is in perfect alignment to ensure the remainder of the installation goes smoothly. Any variance will worsen as the flooring proceeds further into the room. This is a good time to inspect the floor, before the glue has fully set. Adjust the floor as needed before proceeding.
9. Continue to install the floor as above. Use blue tape to hold joints together and wedges to hold the end joints in place. Do not walk on the finished floor during installation since the glue has not fully set. Do not “roll” the floor either.
10. Finish the final row, cutting boards to fit and maintain the 3/8 inch expansion gap.
11. If starting strip (sacrificial row) was used, remove and replace with a row of boards, glued same as above.

STEP FOUR: FINISHING:

1. Remove all tape from the floor surface.
2. Inspect floor for any gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing tape. Remove all residue, touch up chips and fill with appropriate filler if necessary. Use coloured latex filler for factory finished floors.
3. Install or reinstall all mouldings, nailing to wall, not the floor. Add base shoe if necessary.
4. Vacuum or sweep floor thoroughly and use only cleaners formulated for pre-finished hardwood. Never wet mop or spray cleaner directly on floor.
5. Wait 24 hours before moving furniture and allowing heavy foot traffic.
6. If floor is to be covered for temporary protection, use a breathable material. Never cover with plastic.

STAPLE/NAIL INSTALLATION:

• Do not cut short boards to finish a row. After a board is cut, the remainder can be used to start the new rows. A short board that is cut will only produce waste.
• Make sure staple plate is clean and free of nicks.
• When the stapler or nailer are not being used, do not place it directly onto the hardwood floor.
• Check the air pressure of your stapler/nailer. Different subfloors and flooring require different air pressures. Staples or cleats can cause blistering, peaking, squeaking or crackling of the floor if the stapler/nailer is not adjusted properly and staples/cleats are positioned at the wrong angle. Perform a trial on a scrap piece. Set the stapler/nailer flush with the tongue side of the plank and install a staple/cleat. The crown of the staple/cleat should sit flush within the nail pocket. If the crown is set too deep, reduce the air pressure. If the staple/cleat is not set deep enough, increase the air pressure.

STEP ONE: STARTING THE LAYOUT

1. Installation parallel to the longest and straightest wall is recommended for best visual effects. Install floors perpendicular to flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce any subfloor sagging.
2. Snap a chalk line 5-5/8 -inches from the starting wall. This should account for 3/8-inch space for expansion gap and the tongue.
3. Install first board, aligning tongue side with starting line, groove side of the board facing the starting wall. IMPORTANT: You Must Start Straight And Square. Leave a 3/8-inch gap at the end and side wall.
4. Pre-drill ½ inch from back groove-edge parallel to the starting wall. Use 6d finish nails and a pneumatic finish nailer to secure the first board every 6 to 8 inches within the tongue side nail pocket at a 45° angle. Nail the edge, not the ends and maintain 3/8 inch expansion space. Nail heads will be hidden by quarter rounds and baseboards later on.

STEP TWO: INSTALLING THE FLOOR

1. Insert end of the next board into the adjoining tongue or groove and force the butt ends tightly together. Fasten as above until all boards in the first row are complete.
2. Cut the final board for the row, always ensuring there is a 3/8 inch expansion space at the wall.
3. Taking boards from several cartons, layout an area of the floor loosely laying materials side by side, avoiding close joints. Stagger joints a minimum 6 inches in adjacent rows. Avoid alignment of joints in alternating rows which can create an undesirable H-shaped pattern.
4. Once satisfied with the layout, install the area using cut pieces from the end as starter boards for the next rows to reduce waste. Since the wall makes it difficult to use a stapler, use finishing nails every 4” (102mm) along the tongue side for the first few rows, countersinking nails.
5. Once enough rows have been installed, use a stapler or brad nailer for subsequent rows, blind nailing the tongue side. Avoid close alignment of joints in all rows throughout the installation, always striving for the maximum space available and minimum 6 inches between adjacent joints. Nail down boards every 4 to 5” inches, but keep more than 2 inches away from the end of each board.
6. The last 1 to 4 rows will need to be face-nailed, similar to the first few rows when clearance does not permit blind nailing with the stapler.
7. Measure the final row. Trim or rip boards to fit along the length of the wall, allowing for 3/8 inch expansion.

STEP THREE: FINISHING

1. Remove all tape from the floor surface.
2. Inspect floor for any gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing tape. Remove all residue, touch up chips and fill with appropriate filler if necessary. Use coloured latex filler for factory finished floors.
3. Install or reinstall all mouldings, nailing to wall, not the floor. Add base shoe if necessary.
4. Vacuum or sweep floor thoroughly and use only cleaners formulated for pre-finished hardwood. Never wet mop or spray cleaner directly on floor.
5. If floor is to be covered for temporary protection, use a breathable material. Never cover with plastic.
6. Save a few boards in case board replacement or repair is necessary.

LAMINATE INSTALLATION:

PREPARATION

Remove wrapping and lay flooring out flat and keep at room temperature for about 48 hours. Check all boards for defects and serious miscolour. Ensure the substrate or subfloor you are going to install the new flooring on, is clean, smooth and level. All carpet, underlay and adhesive must be thoroughly removed to ensure the installation area is clean and smooth. All uneven areas must be leveled. If the subfloor is concrete, a patch-test will need to be done. If there is any evidence of moisture, the concrete must be treated with an appropriate sealer. Laminate must not be installed if the patch test indicates moisture, and the concrete will need to be sealed before installing the laminate. It is recommended that a poly moisture barrier be placed over concrete sub-floors to protect against moisture.

MOISTURE BARRIER

If moisture is likely to occur, it is advisable to protect laminate flooring from subfloor surfaces by first applying a 6-mil poly moisture barrier over the base surface. Overlap the polyethylene about 10 inches and seal the overlap areas with water-proof adhesive tape. This process should be followed on concrete floors and on any floors below grade or where moisture may be a problem. A moisture barrier should also be installed over floors with radiant heat. Before laying the barrier, turn heat down to 15°C (60°F) a week ahead of install and thereafter keep room temperature below 27°C (8o°F) at all times. Laminate should not be installed in any room exposed to excessive moisture such as bathrooms.

UNDERLAY

Laminate will need to be installed on top of a good quality underlay; high density foam and cork are often used. If you are using a moisture barrier, put the underlay on top of the moisture barrier Underlay joints should be joined with adhesive tape and should not overlap.

MEASUREMENTS

Be sure to consider the required expansion gaps when measuring all subfloor surfaces. When considering the expansion gaps, the tongues of the laminate are 5mm and need to be part of the measurement, You can cut off the tongue facing the expansion gap on the first row if you prefer. It is also important to measure the room for squareness. If the room is not square, use the longest and straightest wall as your line of reference, and draw perpendicular lines from it.

*TIP: Draw your line at a distance from the wall more than width of the laminate board so it is visible after you position your first row of boards. It is recommended that all installed boards be not less than one foot in length.

*TIP: Measure the length of a row and cut the first board of the row according to the length desired for the last board of the row.

DIRECTION OF BOARDS

For appearance, boards are normally installed so the length direction of the boards is the same as the length direction of the room. This will give a balanced look to the room and will reduce the amount of cutting required.

EXPANSION

Because changes in heat and humidity will cause laminate to expand and contract in both length and width, expansion spaces must be allowed on all sides of the installed floor. The use of spacers inserted between the boards and perimeter walls is recommended. The spacers should be removed after the boards are installed and before mouldings are attached to the walls. For rooms up to 25 feet wide and 40 feet long, allow for expansion between 3/8 and 5/8 inch along each wall.

PIPES AND OTHER OBSTACLES

When installing a laminate board around a pipe or other obstacle, leave the same expansion gap as you would next to a wall. Measure and precut the affected board. If there is condensation from the pipe, cut the board so there is sufficient space to keep the board dry. It is recommended that you treat the exposed edge of the board to protect it from pipe condensation.

*Tip: Fill the space around a pipe with caulking in order to protect the exposed (cut) edge of the board. For rooms up to 25 feet by 40 feet, allow for expansion between 3/8 and 5/8 inch along each wall.

BEFORE INSTALLATION

• Maintain temperature between 18-24 °C (65-75° F) and 35-55% relative humidity for 3-5 days before and during installation, and maintain after installation. HVAC systems must be operational for at least a week prior to installation.
• Radiant heat systems must be operating at least one week prior to installation. Turn off and let subfloor cool down to room temperature 3-4 hours before install.
• Ensure basements and crawl spaces are sufficiently ventilated. (1-4% of open venting per 1000/ square feet of floor area.
• Insulate heating ducts with two layers of #15 asphalt felt paper. Laminate floors can be installed on, above and below grade where proper care has been taken to ensure flooring conditions meet installation and warranty requirements.
• Measure doors for clearance of installed boards. Cut away doorframe and jambs at bottom if necessary. Remove existing baseboards.
• Surfaces should be clean, smooth and level. Surfaces with slopes steeper than 3mm over 1meter must be leveled.
• Measure the perimeter of the room’s squareness, and the required width of the last row of boards. Allow for expansion gaps along each wall.
• Wear protective mask, safety glasses and gloves when sawing boards. Always cut laminate boards with the decor side facing down. An electric circular saw or miter saw with a finishing blade is recommended.

• You may walk on a newly installed Vinyl SPC floor right after installation.
• Ensure that the indoor climate is always kept between 15°C-26°C (60°F-80°F).
• Make sure to check Warranty Terms & Conditions and Care & Maintenance Guidelines.

Leveling a Floor