Installation

There's More To Proper Flooring Installation Than Meets The Eye.

Hardwood:

Natural hardwood is often referred to as “alive,” it needs to breath; in other words, it needs to be able to expand and contract. Temperature, altitude and humidity all have an effect on natural hardwood. Those components are a consideration that play a role in the installation process.

Types of Installation:

Engineered Hardwood: is often more stable and stronger than solid hardwood because of its layers. Its perpendicular layers mean less expansion and contraction, and this allows for a tighter fit, especially during the colder winter months when the air is dry.

Levelling and Flooring Preparation

View our Gallery of Leveling and Flooring Preparation Images

BEFORE STARTING

ACCLIMATION:

Floors should be acclimatized for 72 hours in the room in which it will be installed. Several moisture tests should be done prior to installation to ensure proper moisture content. Failure to allow flooring to properly acclimatize prior to installation may cause cracks, separation and cupping.

HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE:

Wood is a natural resource made of fibers that will naturally contract and expand with changes in humidity. This contraction and expansion is normal and will not harm your floor as long as relative humidity levels are maintained between 35% and 55% and temperature is maintained between 18-24°C (65-75° F) for at least 3-5 days prior to flooring installation and those temperature & humidity levels are maintained after installation. This may require the use of a humidifier or dehumidifier and/or ventilation. Failure to maintain proper humidity levels can cause “cupping” and aggravate other problems. Always maintain a ¾ inch expansion gap around all vertical obstructions including walls to allow for contraction and expansion. Be sure to store flooring in a well ventilated, climate-controlled environment.

PREPARING THE AREA:

  • Moldings: If needed, use a jamb saw to undercut door casings and jambs so that flooring can slide underneath.
  • Scribe along the top edge of existing base moldings with a utility knife prior to removing moldings to prevent tearing paint or drywall.
  • Remove all existing moldings and doorway thresholds before installing floor.
  • Environment: Maintain temperature between 18-24°C (65-75° F) and relative humidity at 35-55% for at least 3-5 days before installation and maintain after installation. HVAC system must be operational for at least a week prior.
  • Radiant heat systems must be operating at least one week prior to installation. Turn off and let subfloor cool down to room temperature 3-4 hours before installation.
  • Ensure basements and crawl spaces are ventilated.
  • Insulate heating ducts with a double layer of thick asphalt felt paper.
  • Engineered floors can be installed on, above and below grade where proper care has been taken to ensure flooring conditions meet installation and warranty requirements.
  • Ensure flooring application is appropriate for engineered flooring. Do NOT install floors in moist or damp areas such as, bathrooms, saunas, patios, decks or outdoors.

SUBFLOORS MUST BE LEVEL within 3/16 inch over 10 feet (5mm in 3 meters) prior to installation. Subfloors that are not level can cause creaking noise and other problems, which will not be covered by warranty. Carefully inspect your subfloor and replace any nails that are not completely secure. Close adherence to installation instructions can minimize the risk of squeaks, however, there is no guarantee an engineered hardwood floor will not squeak. Squeaks are caused when the subfloor separates from the joist. This can happen with temperature and humidity changes or when new construction settles, which changes the levelness of the subfloor. When the wood moves up and down on the pulled nail, it can cause the floor to squeak, therefore, it is recommended that your subfloor is screwed down rather than nailed down to prevent squeaking. 

If moisture limits are exceeded, do not install flooring, prior to correcting the problem by increasing the temperature and ventilation until proper relative humidity conditions are met. Alternatively appropriate moisture retardant or use a vapour barrier underlay can be used. However, subfloor moisture should not exceed 12% and the difference between subfloor and the flooring should not exceed 3% moisture. Do not install flooring if moisture limits are exceeded; moisture limits must be brought into an acceptable range prior to install.

Carefully inspect the subfloor before installation. Watch for creaking, loose nails or screws, dints, chips, heaves and dips and repair as needed. The subfloor must be level. If you are installing a new plywood subfloor, lay the plywood perpendicular or on a diagonal to the flooring joists, with 1/8 inch spacing between sheets. Install # 15 felt floor liner under subfloor placed over concrete. Securely fasten down plywood with nails, staples or screws every 6 inches. If you are installing over old wood floors, 1/4-to-3/8-inch plywood can be used. If a wood sub-floor is used above soil, a 6 ml polyethylene moisture barrier with taped seams should be placed over the soil to prevent moisture from getting into the engineered flooring. OSB must be APA rated, at least 3/4 inch, and maintained in a controlled environment.

Concrete

Concrete subfloors must be cured for at least 45-90 days with 30-60 days drying time prior to installation. Moisture tests must be completed and documented on all concrete slabs using an accurate moisture test. If there is evidence of moisture after performing tests, postpone installation until moisture problem has been corrected or use an appropriate moisture barrier. Moisture readings over 3 lbs/1000 sq ft, must have an appropriate surface moisture barrier applied, or warranty will be voided. Please note: You may be required to provide proof of moisture testing documentation for warranty claims. All concrete slabs should have a minimum of 6-mil poly film moisture barrier between the ground and concrete regardless of results. Existing carpeting or under pad MUST be removed.

POLYFILM TEST:
Do one test per 200 sq. ft. and 2 tests minimum per job. For each test area, place a 2’x2’ piece of 6-mil poly film over concrete and secure with duct tape, ensuring no holes for moisture to escape. Examine film after two days and see if there is any evidence of moisture: fog, dampness, cloudiness or colour change.
PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST:
Do one test per 200 sq. ft. and 2 test min. per job. Chip off a small piece of concrete from subfloor and apply 3% phenolphthalein in an alcohol solution to the subfloor where the chip was removed. Chipping off a piece gives a more accurate moisture reading than testing the surface if sealers have been used. Red colour indicates moisture.
CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST:
You will need a calcium chloride test kit. Do one test per 1000 sq. ft. Clean test area to remove any debris, wax, sealers, dirt or other contaminants. Floor and surrounding area should be at least 18°C (65°F). Follow instructions as per test kit. Concrete subfloors must be free of sealers, paint, oil, wax, etc., which can affect proper adhesion of floors. Do not use a solvent-based stripper to remove any contaminants. Sand any loose concrete with open grit #20 sandpaper and vacuum any debris. Grind down any raised areas and fill in low areas with leveling compound to ensure subfloor is in a completely level plane. Do not install over concrete with compressive strength less than 2500psi.

 

AFTER INSTALLATION:

  • Once installation is complete, cover your floors using heavy-duty protective flooring paper prior to proceeding with other interior work. Frequently, damage to a newly installed floor can be caused by other trades dropping tools, dragging ladders and scaffolding across an unprotected floor or by painters spilling paint on it.
  • Putting any kind of tape on the actual flooring is not recommended. When taping paper or sheets together, tape them to each other rather than taping to finished floor.
  • Do not allow the protective floor covering to sit on the installed floor for an extended length of time. Follow the manufacturer recommendations for the type of floor covering.

COLOUR CHANGES AND VARIATION:

Hardwood flooring ages and matures over time with exposure to UV light. Most floors will darken and become richer in colour. To prevent spot darkening of floors, area rugs and large pieces of furniture should be routinely rearranged. Many wood floors will display variation in colour from board to board. Some floors will have more variation than others depending on the species. This is not indicative of any fault in the floor, but is a natural occurrence with any wood product. It is advisable to choose and install boards from several different boxes to ensure a good mix of colour, grain and shading.

MOISTURE:

Water can damage a wood floor. Any spills of any liquid should be wiped up right away. Do not wet-mop wood floors. Damage resulting from standing water or liquid is not covered by warranty.

RADIANT HEAT:

  • Most engineered floors are approved for use over hydronic (not electric) radiant heat.
  • When installing wood flooring over radiant heat, floating installation is recommended. Glue down installation over radiant heat is acceptable with the exception of certain species.
  • Plywood with vapour barrier is recommended for all applications (glue, float, nail/staple) over radiant heat.
  • Ensure flooring is approved for use over radiant heat.
  • Use adhesives specially formulated for use over radiant heat.
  • NEVER penetrate heating elements when installing floors over radiant heat.
  • Check subfloor for moisture content. Both flooring and subfloor must have proper moisture tests performed.
  • For hydronic radiant heat, a pressure test must be performed and documented by a qualified plumber or radiant heat installer prior to flooring installation.
  • An outside thermostat should be installed to prevent changes in moisture content due to temperature.
  • You can expect seasonal changes such as shrinkage and expansion with changes in temperature and humidity. With radiant heating, it is very important to maintain humidity at 35-55% and never fall below 35%. Temperature must not exceed 28°C (82°F). A humidifier and/or dehumidifier may be needed to maintain humidity at desired levels. Some species may require 45-55% humidity levels. Please consult manufacturers recommendations.

Turning Radiant Heat OFF & ON: 

  • Radiant heating system should be run at 2/3 of maximum output for at least 2 weeks before installation to allow any remaining moisture to dissipate.
  • Three to five days prior to installation, reduce heating system to 65°F (18°C) so adhesive does not cure excessively or too fast.
  • Two days after installation, gradually raise temperature to desired level over the next week.
  • Surface temperature should never exceed 27°C (82°F).
  • Maintain relative humidity at 35-55%.
Types of Systems Above Radiant Heat:
      1. Concrete with two layers of plywood interlocking covered with moisture barrier.
      2. Subfloor directly nailed to floor joist with radiant heat system. The plywood is screwed into place on the floor joist which the radiant heating system is installed. Vapour barrier is between the floor and subfloor.
      3. Subfloor over sleepers between radiant heat tubing.

    Additional Installation Guidelines:

    Glue Down
    • Do not glue down any flooring directly to exposed radiant heat piping.
    • Do not directly glue down any wood flooring over brittle lightweight concrete.
    • Carefully review exempt species of hardwood for glue-down installation.
    ONLY USE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED GLUES
    Floating
    • Only use glues recommended for floating over radiant heat.
    • Use recommended underlayment. Underlayment must be resistant to temperatures above 30°C or 85°F.
    Nail/Staple Down
    • Avoid penetration of the heating element. Ensure nails are not too long.
    • Clean any adhesive residue from the flooring surface immediately. Do not wait until the end of installation, since adhesive may dry and will be very difficult to remove without damaging the finish.
    • Use blue painter’s tape to hold joints tightly together until adhesive cures. Do not use masking tape.
    • Avoid standing or putting weight on newly installed floors during installation.
    • During installation, occasionally remove a piece of flooring from the subfloor and inspect the back for proper adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to achieve proper bonding.
    • Save a few boards in case board replacement or repair is necessary.

      STEP ONE: STARTING THE LAYOUT:

      1. Installation parallel to the longest and straightest wall is recommended for best visual effects. Install floors perpendicular to flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce any subfloor sagging.
      2. In at least two places, at least 18 inches from the corners of the starting walls, measure out equal distances and snap a chalk line. The measurements must be the sum of the width of the flooring plus an additional 5/8 inch to allow for 3/8-inch expansion space and the width of the tongue.
      3. Measure the distance between the starting line along the full length of the wall to see if there are any places out of line. It may be necessary to trim board widths in order to be aligned with any irregularities in the wall.
      4. Install a starting strip with no adhesive, along the inside edge of the chalk line, closest to the starting wall. This row must perfectly align with the starting chalk line.
      5. When the row is completely straight, use finish nails or concrete nails to attach strip to the subfloor. This sacrificial row will minimize movement of the floor during the installation process and will be removed later on.

      STEP TWO: SPREADING THE ADHESIVE:

      1. Follow all directions according to the adhesive manufacturer. Use a trowel to spread adhesive over an area that can be covered with flooring within 30-90 minutes. Work trowel at 45-degree angle in a circular motion.

      STEP THREE: INSTALLING THE FLOOR:

      1. Install the first board along the chalk line, making sure the tongue side is tight against the strip.
      2. Insert the next board into the adjoining tongue or groove and force the board tightly against the sacrificial row and first plank. When installing products wider than 3¼ inch, apply a bead of carpenter’s wood glue to all the end grooves prior to installing into the adhesive. When installing pieces, engage the short end-joint first then slide together tightly to engage long joint tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive bleed-through and memory pull-back, avoid sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as possible when placing them in position.
      3. Once you have installed three or more boards in the first row, you can begin installation of the second row.
      4. Select a board for the second row that will allow at least 6 inches of difference between the joints of the first row and second row. Continue installation, starting new rows once three or more boards have been installed for the preceding rows until the laid down adhesive has been covered.
      5. Stagger joints a minimum 6 inches in adjacent rows. Avoid alignment of joints in alternating rows which can create an undesirable H-shaped pattern.
      6. Once the first section has been completed, inspect all joints closely, tightening all end and side gaps as needed.
      7. Measure the final row and trim board lengths to fit along the final wall, maintaining 3/8 inch expansion gap. Use blue painter’s tape to hold the final row in place.
      8. Once main area is complete, remove the sacrificial row, careful not to damage the adjoining boards. Complete installation in the same manner.
      9. If required by adhesive manufacturer, roll floor with appropriate weight roller before adhesive cures.
      10. If necessary, use weights to flatten boards with bows until adhesive cures in order to prevent hollow spots. Boards that cannot be flattened should be cut in length to reduce the bow or not used.

      STEP FOUR: FINISHING:

      1. Remove all tape from the floor surface. Do not let tape remain on flooring longer than 24 hours.
      2. Inspect floor for any gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing tape. Remove all residue, touch up chips and fill with appropriate filler if necessary. Use coloured latex filler for factory finished floors.
      3. Install or reinstall all mouldings, nailing to wall, not the floor. Add base shoe if necessary.
      4. Vacuum or sweep floor thoroughly.
      5. Use only cleaners formulated for pre-finished hardwood floors. Never wet mop or spray cleaner directly on floor.
      6. Wait 24 hours before moving furniture and allowing heavy foot traffic.
      7. If floor is to be covered for temporary protection, use a breathable material such as, cardboard. Never cover with plastic.

      Floating Installation

      STEP ONE: PREPARING THE FLOOR:

      1. For concrete subfloors, follow all testing requirements for moisture prior to installation. Install a 6-mil poly vapour barrier with joints overlapping 8” (203mm). Fasten seams every 18-24 inches with clear waterproof packing tape. Run outside edges of poly up perimeter of each wall 4 inches. Trim excess after flooring installation is complete. Do not use vapour barrier over wood subfloors, use moisture retardant.
      2. Install recommended underlayment parallel to the starting wall in the same direction flooring will be installed. Butt edges but do not overlap joints. Leave a 3/8 inch space between pad and all walls and permanent vertical fixtures. Tape all joints using a waterproof tape with no wrinkles.

      STEP TWO: STARTING THE LAYOUT:

      1. Installation parallel to the longest and straightest wall is recommended for best visual effects. Install floors perpendicular to flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce any subfloor sagging.
      2. In at least two places, at least 18 inches from the corners of the starting walls, measure out equal distances and snap a chalk line. The measurements must be the sum of the width of the flooring plus an additional 5/8 inch to allow for 3/8 inch expansion space and the width of the tongue.
      3. Measure the distance between the starting line along the full length of the wall to see if there are any places out of line. It may be necessary to trim board widths in order to line up against the wall and its irregularities.
      4. OPTIONAL: Install a row with no adhesive along the inside edge of the chalk line, closest to the starting wall. Make sure row is in perfect alignment with the chalk line and use wedges to hold the flooring in place on the ends.

      STEP THREE: INSTALLING THE FLOOR:

      1. Select the longest boards available. Lay the boards out along the length of the room, making certain the final board in the row is at least 12 inches in length. If not, trim the first board to allow the last board to be longer.
      2. Begin installation with the tongue facing away from the starting wall. Groove should be facing the starting wall or strip row. The short end groove should be facing the end wall. Align the first board with the starting line.
      3. Select the next board. Place a 1/8 inch continuous bead of glue in the inside bottom edge of the short end groove. Do not apply glue to the long side groove yet. Carefully interlock the joint of the second board to the first board, keeping the long side aligned with the starting line.
      4. Remove any excess glue from the floor surface with a towel dampened (not wet) with warm soapy water. Do not let glue dry on surface. Use 3M blue painter’s tape, not masking tape, to temporarily hold the flooring in place and joints together. Use wedges or spacers along the side and end walls and on the ends only if a sacrificial row was used to maintain alignment with the starting line. Continue until first row is complete.
      5. Measure and cut to length the final board in the first row, allowing 3/8 inch expansion gap between the end of the board and end wall. Select a longer board so that the remaining piece of the board can be used to start the next or later rows. Apply glue in the groove and install.
      6. If the cut off waste piece from the first row, last piece was 18 inches or longer, use it to start the second row. Stagger adjacent row joints at least 6 inches.
      7. Place a continuous bead of glue along the inside bottom edge of the end groove and side groove. Carefully align the tongue and grooves together and tighten with a tapping block until all joints are snug. Remove any excess glue and temporarily hold joints together with blue tape. Cut and install the final board of the row.
      8. Continue until the first few rows are complete. At this point, you want to be certain the floor installation is in perfect alignment to ensure the remainder of the installation goes smoothly. Any variance will worsen as the flooring proceeds further into the room. This is a good time to inspect the floor, before the glue has fully set. Adjust the floor as needed before proceeding.
      9. Continue to install the floor as above. Use blue tape to hold joints together and wedges to hold the end joints in place. Do not walk on the finished floor during installation since the glue has not fully set. Do not “roll” the floor either.
      10. Finish the final row, cutting boards to fit and maintain the 3/8 inch expansion gap.
      11. If starting strip (sacrificial row) was used, remove and replace with a row of boards, glued same as above.

      STEP FOUR: FINISHING:

      1. Remove all tape from the floor surface.
      2. Inspect floor for any gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing tape. Remove all residue, touch up chips and fill with appropriate filler if necessary. Use coloured latex filler for factory finished floors.
      3. Install or reinstall all mouldings, nailing to wall, not the floor. Add base shoe if necessary.
      4. Vacuum or sweep floor thoroughly and use only cleaners formulated for pre-finished hardwood. Never wet mop or spray cleaner directly on floor.
      5. Wait 24 hours before moving furniture and allowing heavy foot traffic.
      6. If floor is to be covered for temporary protection, use a breathable material. Never cover with plastic.

      STAPLE/NAIL INSTALLATION:

      • Do not cut short boards to finish a row. After a board is cut, the remainder can be used to start the new rows. A short board that is cut will only produce waste.
      • Make sure staple plate is clean and free of nicks.
      • When the stapler or nailer are not being used, do not place it directly onto the hardwood floor.
      • Check the air pressure of your stapler/nailer. Different subfloors and flooring require different air pressures. Staples or cleats can cause blistering, peaking, squeaking or crackling of the floor if the stapler/nailer is not adjusted properly and staples/cleats are positioned at the wrong angle. Perform a trial on a scrap piece. Set the stapler/nailer flush with the tongue side of the plank and install a staple/cleat. The crown of the staple/cleat should sit flush within the nail pocket. If the crown is set too deep, reduce the air pressure. If the staple/cleat is not set deep enough, increase the air pressure.

      STEP ONE: STARTING THE LAYOUT

      1. Installation parallel to the longest and straightest wall is recommended for best visual effects. Install floors perpendicular to flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce any subfloor sagging.
      2. Snap a chalk line 5-5/8 -inches from the starting wall. This should account for 3/8-inch space for expansion gap and the tongue.
      3. Install first board, aligning tongue side with starting line, groove side of the board facing the starting wall. IMPORTANT: You Must Start Straight And Square. Leave a 3/8-inch gap at the end and side wall.
      4. Pre-drill ½ inch from back groove-edge parallel to the starting wall. Use 6d finish nails and a pneumatic finish nailer to secure the first board every 6 to 8 inches within the tongue side nail pocket at a 45° angle. Nail the edge, not the ends and maintain 3/8 inch expansion space. Nail heads will be hidden by quarter rounds and baseboards later on.

      STEP TWO: INSTALLING THE FLOOR

      1. Insert end of the next board into the adjoining tongue or groove and force the butt ends tightly together. Fasten as above until all boards in the first row are complete.
      2. Cut the final board for the row, always ensuring there is a 3/8 inch expansion space at the wall.
      3. Taking boards from several cartons, layout an area of the floor loosely laying materials side by side, avoiding close joints. Stagger joints a minimum 6 inches in adjacent rows. Avoid alignment of joints in alternating rows which can create an undesirable H-shaped pattern.
      4. Once satisfied with the layout, install the area using cut pieces from the end as starter boards for the next rows to reduce waste. Since the wall makes it difficult to use a stapler, use finishing nails every 4” (102mm) along the tongue side for the first few rows, countersinking nails.
      5. Once enough rows have been installed, use a stapler or brad nailer for subsequent rows, blind nailing the tongue side. Avoid close alignment of joints in all rows throughout the installation, always striving for the maximum space available and minimum 6 inches between adjacent joints. Nail down boards every 4 to 5” inches, but keep more than 2 inches away from the end of each board.
      6. The last 1 to 4 rows will need to be face-nailed, similar to the first few rows when clearance does not permit blind nailing with the stapler.
      7. Measure the final row. Trim or rip boards to fit along the length of the wall, allowing for 3/8 inch expansion.

      STEP THREE: FINISHING

      1. Remove all tape from the floor surface.
      2. Inspect floor for any gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing tape. Remove all residue, touch up chips and fill with appropriate filler if necessary. Use coloured latex filler for factory finished floors.
      3. Install or reinstall all mouldings, nailing to wall, not the floor. Add base shoe if necessary.
      4. Vacuum or sweep floor thoroughly and use only cleaners formulated for pre-finished hardwood. Never wet mop or spray cleaner directly on floor.
      5. If floor is to be covered for temporary protection, use a breathable material. Never cover with plastic.
      6. Save a few boards in case board replacement or repair is necessary.

      LAMINATE INSTALLATION:

      PREPARATION

      Remove wrapping and lay flooring out flat and keep at room temperature for about 48 hours. Check all boards for defects and serious miscolour. Ensure the substrate or subfloor you are going to install the new flooring on, is clean, smooth and level. All carpet, underlay and adhesive must be thoroughly removed to ensure the installation area is clean and smooth. All uneven areas must be leveled. If the subfloor is concrete, a patch-test will need to be done. If there is any evidence of moisture, the concrete must be treated with an appropriate sealer. Laminate must not be installed if the patch test indicates moisture, and the concrete will need to be sealed before installing the laminate. It is recommended that a poly moisture barrier be placed over concrete sub-floors to protect against moisture.

      MOISTURE BARRIER

      If moisture is likely to occur, it is advisable to protect laminate flooring from subfloor surfaces by first applying a 6-mil poly moisture barrier over the base surface. Overlap the polyethylene about 10 inches and seal the overlap areas with water-proof adhesive tape. This process should be followed on concrete floors and on any floors below grade or where moisture may be a problem. A moisture barrier should also be installed over floors with radiant heat. Before laying the barrier, turn heat down to 15°C (60°F) a week ahead of install and thereafter keep room temperature below 27°C (8o°F) at all times. Laminate should not be installed in any room exposed to excessive moisture such as bathrooms.

      UNDERLAY

      Laminate will need to be installed on top of a good quality underlay; high density foam and cork are often used. If you are using a moisture barrier, put the underlay on top of the moisture barrier Underlay joints should be joined with adhesive tape and should not overlap.

      MEASUREMENTS

      Be sure to consider the required expansion gaps when measuring all subfloor surfaces. When considering the expansion gaps, the tongues of the laminate are 5mm and need to be part of the measurement, You can cut off the tongue facing the expansion gap on the first row if you prefer. It is also important to measure the room for squareness. If the room is not square, use the longest and straightest wall as your line of reference, and draw perpendicular lines from it.

      *TIP: Draw your line at a distance from the wall more than width of the laminate board so it is visible after you position your first row of boards. It is recommended that all installed boards be not less than one foot in length.

      *TIP: Measure the length of a row and cut the first board of the row according to the length desired for the last board of the row.

      DIRECTION OF BOARDS

      For appearance, boards are normally installed so the length direction of the boards is the same as the length direction of the room. This will give a balanced look to the room and will reduce the amount of cutting required.

      EXPANSION

      Because changes in heat and humidity will cause laminate to expand and contract in both length and width, expansion spaces must be allowed on all sides of the installed floor. The use of spacers inserted between the boards and perimeter walls is recommended. The spacers should be removed after the boards are installed and before mouldings are attached to the walls. For rooms up to 25 feet wide and 40 feet long, allow for expansion between 3/8 and 5/8 inch along each wall.

      PIPES AND OTHER OBSTACLES

      When installing a laminate board around a pipe or other obstacle, leave the same expansion gap as you would next to a wall. Measure and precut the affected board. If there is condensation from the pipe, cut the board so there is sufficient space to keep the board dry. It is recommended that you treat the exposed edge of the board to protect it from pipe condensation.

      *Tip: Fill the space around a pipe with caulking in order to protect the exposed (cut) edge of the board. For rooms up to 25 feet by 40 feet, allow for expansion between 3/8 and 5/8 inch along each wall.

      BEFORE INSTALLATION

      • Maintain temperature between 18-24 °C (65-75° F) and 35-55% relative humidity for 3-5 days before and during installation, and maintain after installation. HVAC systems must be operational for at least a week prior to installation.
      • Radiant heat systems must be operating at least one week prior to installation. Turn off and let subfloor cool down to room temperature 3-4 hours before install.
      • Ensure basements and crawl spaces are sufficiently ventilated. (1-4% of open venting per 1000/ square feet of floor area.
      • Insulate heating ducts with two layers of #15 asphalt felt paper. Laminate floors can be installed on, above and below grade where proper care has been taken to ensure flooring conditions meet installation and warranty requirements.
      • Measure doors for clearance of installed boards. Cut away doorframe and jambs at bottom if necessary. Remove existing baseboards.
      • Surfaces should be clean, smooth and level. Surfaces with slopes steeper than 3mm over 1meter must be leveled.
      • Measure the perimeter of the room’s squareness, and the required width of the last row of boards. Allow for expansion gaps along each wall.
      • Wear protective mask, safety glasses and gloves when sawing boards. Always cut laminate boards with the decor side facing down. An electric circular saw or miter saw with a finishing blade is recommended.
      INSTALLATION
      • Tongue and groove boards are easily installed without glue. Simply attach the tongue on one board to the grove side of the other board and the boards will lock snugly together.
      • Start with the first board flat on the floor, decor surface up, and the groove side away from the wall.
      • Insert the tongue of the second board partially into the groove on the first, while holding the second board at about a 20°angle from the floor. Press the second board down and use a hammering block to lock firmly into place. (Reverse the procedure to release.) Continue in a similar fashion for the remaining boards.
      *TIP: After you have locked a few rows in place, you may find it easier to stand on the installed boards when setting the next row in place. Measure the length of a row and cut the first board of the row according to the length desired for the last board of the row.
      First Row 
      • Measure the row before laying the first board. Cut the first board according to the length required for the last board. (See measurements above).
      • Measure for straightness and cut the boards to make sure the inner edge of the first-row of boards is square before starting the second row.
      *Tip: Measure the last row for board width first. Then cut first row boards to the same width as last row. Less than 2 inches is not recommended.
      • Position the first-row boards along one wall, leaving space for expansion between boards and the wall.
      • Lock the ends of the boards together until the first row is finished.
      • For rooms up to 25 feet wide and 40 feet in length, again, allow for expansion between 3/8 and 5/8 inch along each wall.
      *TIP: As mentioned above, measure the length of a row and cut the first board of the row according to the length desired for the last board of the row.
      Second Row
      The first board of the second row should be long enough so the ends of the second-row boards reach past the end seams of the first-row boards.
      *TIP: lf the remaining section of the last board of the first row is long enough, use it for the first board of the second row. Line up the first board of the second row so the outside end is even with the outside end of the first board of the first row. Lock the long side of the second-row board onto the board of the first row.
      VINYL (SPC) FLOORING
      Please inspect product for color, finish, quality and style before installing. Warranties generally do not cover materials with visible defects once they have been installed. Any defects should be reported to the dealer for inspection and replacement. Failure to follow recommended installation procedures may void warranty. All boards installed are considered as accepted by the installer and/or homeowner and the manufacturer generally assumes no responsibility for defects in colour, finish and style after installation.
      PREPARATION
      • IMPORTANT: Do Not install Vinyl SPC flooring in any exterior areas such as porches, patios and decks. SPC floors were designed for interior areas, including sunrooms.
      • ALWAYS acclimate your floors prior to installing them. The cartons must be stored horizontally and planks should remain in their closed boxes until installation. The room temperature should be kept between 15-26°C (60-80°F) for at least 48 hours prior to installation. The same temperature range should be kept during and for at least 24 hours after installation.
      • Once acclimation process is done, open the boxes and check for colour uniformity. Inspect planks in optimal lighting and put aside defective planks for later use as trimming pieces to start and/or finish rows.
      • To determine the amount of material needed, measure area to be covered by floors (simply multiply width x length = square footage of the room). Also, measure transitions like door entryways and nooks) individually to determine total area to cover. Make sure to include 10% extra to make up for waste, trimming and future replacement needs.
      • Vinyl SPC generally comes with a 1mm high-density IXPE Foam attached and cannot be installed over separate underlay.
      • Vinyl SPC floors use click lock systems. The type of clicklock systems may vary from time to time.
      SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
      • Any subfloor unevenness greater than 3/16” in a 10-foot radius must be leveled. Use an appropriate leveling compound and use primer or sealer if recommended by supplier. In some rare cases, the use of an underlay may eliminate the need for additional leveling of subfloor. The subfloors must be clean, dry, smooth, flat, solid and free of mold/mildew. Make sure to nail down any loose boards. If uneven, corrections must be made in order for floors to be installed. There are leveling compounds available in the market for leveling subfloors and filling gaps. Always follow the manufacturer’s application instructions.
      • It is possible to install Vinyl SPC on many different surfaces if stable and firmly secure. Make sure to remove any carpeting, floating hardwood or laminates, felt, cushion vinyl, and adhesive residues.
      • You may install Vinyl SPC directly over ceramic tiles, PVC, VCT, glued laminate or hardwood and fixed wooden boards if they are installed over a wooden subfloor.
      • New concrete subfloors must be cured for at least 60 days.
      • When installing on a cemented subfloor located on the first floor, a 0.6mm thick layer of polyethylene sealer should be applied to prevent moisture from bleeding through, which could create a residue on the flooring surface.
      TIPS FOR BEST RESULTS
      • Blend planks from multiple boxes while installing floors for a harmonious final look.
      • Lay the planks referring to the direction of the longest wall in the room.
      • Stagger planks randomly to avoid aligning short edge seams.
      PLEASE NOTE: Due to differences in temperature and humidity, floors can expand in hot weather and contract in cold weather. Your floors must be able to expand and contract in all directions. To allow for this variation, you must provide expansion gaps along each wall and your floors. Expansion joints must also be provided around pipes, thresholds, obstacles, doorways and between adjoining rooms or areas where adjacent flooring is installed. Keep the seams tight between planks (there should be no gaps between boards as they need to click together). For reference, the expansion that is to be expected can count as much as 2mm per meter (1/16” per 3.28ft). So, the greater the floor area, the greater the expansion. For rooms over 25ft (7.6m) wide or over 40ft (12.2m) long, additional expansion joint must be inserted. Gaps should measure between 8-12mm (5/16”-1/2”) and provided at all walls. We recommend 10mm (3/8”) minimum. An expansion space of 1/4 inch (6 mm) [5/8 inch (16mm) for areas that will be exposed to temperatures greater than 80°F (26°C)] around the perimeter of the room should be maintained; this same expansion space should be maintained when using transition moldings. Otherwise, there is no need for additional expansion space within or between rooms.
      POST-INSTALLATION TIPS 
      • You may walk on a newly installed Vinyl SPC floor right after installation.
      • Ensure that the indoor climate is always kept between 15°C-26°C (60°F-80°F).
      • Make sure to check Warranty Terms & Conditions and Care & Maintenance Guidelines.

      Leveling a Floor

      Before installing rigid flooring, determine if your substrate is even enough—and learn what to do if it isn’t.
      Slightly sloping floors, which are common in older houses, often worry homeowners who want to install new rigid floorings, such as laminate, ceramic tile, or hardwood. A common misconception, however, is that the floor must be level (horizontal) in order to successfully put in rigid flooring. In fact, all that’s required is that the floor be “in plane,” which simply means “flat.”
      The difference between “plane” and “level” is subtle but not arbitrary. Level is the horizontal variance between two points. For example, if you use a laser level to determine the elevation of the floor on both sides of a room, you may find that both sides are pretty close to being the same elevation (level). But if there’s a sag somewhere in the middle, the floor is not in plane even though it’s technically level. Plane refers to the flatness of the entire surface, and any high and low spots must be remedied before installing rigid flooring. The process of fixing both an out-of- level and an out-of-plane floor is simply known as leveling a floor.
      When inflexible flooring is installed over a substrate that dips or heaves, various things can go wrong. Laminate planks can pull apart, and gaps can appear between hardwood planks. To avoid unsatisfactory results with rigid flooring, read on to get clear about if, where, and why your substrate might be uneven—and how to deal with the issues.
      1. Pinpoint Uneven Areas
      The easiest way to find out if your floor is out-of-plane is to use the time-honored marble method. Drop a few marbles onto the floor in various areas around the room and then watch them roll. If they consistently roll to the same side, that side is lower than the rest of the floor. If they roll to other areas of the floor and stop, those areas are likely dips that you probably can’t see with the naked eye. High areas in the floor are called “heaves” and low areas are called “dips.” If you don’t have any marbles handy, you can check for dips and heaves with an eight- foot carpenter’s level or a long straight edge. Place the level or straight edge on different areas of the floor, and notice if it lays flat in all spots. If a gap appears under the center of the level/straight edge, it indicates a low spot—if it rocks back and forth, it’s a sign of a high spot.
      2. Determine the Underlying Problem
      Before taking steps to level a floor, you must find out why it’s not level. Leveling a floor can be either a do-it-yourself project or a job for the pros, depending on what’s causing the problem. Often, age-related settling results in an uneven floor, which is likely nothing to worry about. But in some cases, problematic structural issues, including foundation problems, a cracked floor joist, a rotted sill plate (what the joist sit on), or delaminated subflooring cause the floor to be uneven. The only way to tell for sure is to get under the floor and check the condition of the joists and beams beneath. If joists appear rotted, cracked, or broken, if you find termite damage, or if you discover cracks in the foundation walls, you’re best advised to have a structural engineer determine the type and extent of the structural problem, which will have to be fixed before any floor-leveling can take place. When it comes to concrete floors, height discrepancies are often due to the original concrete finishers not leveling the floor adequately. This is a minor issue and can be fixed using the method discussed next.
      3. Understand Self-Leveling Underlayment
      If an engineer found no structural issues, you may be able to level the floor by applying a cement based self-leveling floor product. A dry substance is mixed with water to form a liquid slurry which is then spread over the floor with a gauge rake. Because it’s a liquid, the slurry will naturally settle into low spots, filling them in and creating a level surface. Self-leveling underlayment products can be used on concrete floors, wood subfloors that are uneven but still in decent shape, and even over ceramic tile floors—eliminating the task of tearing out the old tiles. Check to ensure that the product you purchase is compatible with your floor. This type of floor- leveling is DIY-friendly and not expensive when applied 1/8-inch thick.
      4. Deal with a Delaminated Subfloor
      When a subfloor becomes warped or delaminated (swells and deteriorates), it is no longer level or structurally sound. The best remedy is replacing damaged subfloor boards with new ones. The two types of subfloor material, oriented strand board (OSB) and plywood, are both constructed of wood fibers combined with glue and pressed into durable boards that are more than adequate for constructing a strong floor. When subjected to constant moisture, however, such as a steady drip from leaky plumbing, they will eventually delaminate. Once this occurs, you must correct the cause of the moisture condition, and then the affected section of the subfloor can be replaced. If you’re an enthusiastic DIYer with basic construction skills, you should be able to replace damaged boards to even out the floor. When replacing delaminated subfloor, it’s best to remove and replace the entire sheet that’s damaged, rather than trying to piece in smaller sections.
      5. Plane a Heaving Joist
      Occasionally, a floor joist will bow upward, creating a heaved area on the floor above. If your marble test indicated a high area from which marbles always roll away, it could be that a floor joist has bowed upward—fortunately, one of the simpler structural problems to solve. It requires removing the subfloor over the bowed joist and then planing the high part of the joist down until it’s level across the top. By popping a chalk line along the side of the bowed joist from end to end (hold it at the top end of the joist), you’ll be able to see the portion of the joist that is too high. A power planer makes quick work of planing away the high area, but you can also plane it by hand with a manual planer. When the subfloor is reinstalled, you’ll have an even floor.
      6. Use Shims to Correct Other Joist Issues
      If the uneven floor is due to floor joists that have warped or twisted over time or were incorrectly installed, the only way to level the floor is to remove the subflooring and shim the joists. Shimming involves attaching thin, wedge-shaped pieces of wood on top of the low areas of the joists to make the tops of the joists even. This requires using a laser level (to pinpoint the low areas) and attaching the shims (working on bare joists above a basement or crawlspace), by gluing and screwing them to the joists; then the area is planed to remove any high spots.
      7. Sister an Inadequate Joist System
      Before uniform building codes were common, some builders used undersized lumber or spaced the joists too far apart when constructing the floor joist system. The result was a weak, saggy, or bouncy floor. A structural engineer may suggest “sistering” the joists, a process whereby new joists are attached to the existing joists to add strength to the floor. Sistering joists is a job for the pros, who will bolt the new joists to the old joists and position the ends of the joists on the same sill plate that supports the original joists. Sistering is costly and a major project, depending on the number of joists that require sistering and whether plumbing and wiring have to be relocated in order to attach the sister joists.
      8. Figure Out Foundation Factors
      While the above factors commonly result in uneven floors, a number of other structural problems can occur that result in foundation movement, and subsequently, everything above the foundation moves. This can create uneven floors, cracks in walls, and doors that won’t close. All foundation problems should be inspected and diagnosed by a structural engineer. Foundation footings can sink and basement walls can shift due to lateral pressure from the soil, but whatever the cause, the fix is expensive to have a foundation contractor stabilize the foundation. Even when the foundation is repaired, there’s no guarantee that the floors will be level again, but at that point, shimming the joists may be a feasible option.